Mike Anton
June 3, 2011 – 8:38AM
 
US homeowners are encountering some unusual problems with their garage doors. Photo: Glenn Campbell
Encountering similar problems? Email us
Garage door remote not working? The Pentagon may be to blame.

Not because of any grand conspiracy theory, but rather the mundane use of a radio frequency the military hadn’t used much before.
US homeowners in coastal Orange County, California, are among the latest to discover this quirk. There, signals from Naval Weapons Station Seal Beach have been interfering with garage door openers as far as half a mile (0.8 kilometres) away since March.

That’s when testing began on a new radio system that will allow the base to network with local fire and police agencies during emergencies. The frequency falls in the range of 380-399.9 megahertz, a band long reserved for the Department of Defence but rarely used.

“We hadn’t had the need to use these frequencies before. As a result, garage door manufacturers began using them because they were pretty quiet,” said Gregg Smith, a spokesman for the Navy station. “With the explosion of communications technology over the past 20 years, the DOD has been squeezed to use bands it didn’t need to use before.”

Reports of interference with garage door openers near military installations have been reported from Rhode Island to San Diego to Hawaii.

“Out of the blue, the garage door just stopped working,” said Bill Davey, 51, of Norco. “We changed all the batteries in the remotes. When it still didn’t work, it was like ‘What’s going on here?’ ”

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/technology/technology-news/military-radios-interfering-with-garage-door-openers-20110602-1fj5d.html#ixzz1OAXLxPEb
–

One of the best ways to prevent home fires is to install smoke detectors at every floor of the home and also fire alarms. But, installing the smoke detectors alone would not serve the purpose. Some people think that “once installed forever installed” after installing smoke detectors. But, the fact is many a time the smoke detectors don’t work and do not detect smoke due to mere negligence on behalf of the house owner. The smoke detectors batteries should be tested and checked on a regular basis and in fact the smoke detector should also be tested in whole. Make it a point to replace the battery every year. Do not smoke at home. It is one of the biggest causes of home fires.

The next big cause is electrical short circuit. Use properly rated wires for house wiring and so does other components. Also when plugging in electrical gadgets check the voltage rating to avoid shot circuits. Also, keep cords at a distance from rugs and carpet. Disconnect any appliance when done using. Replace old appliances or fix them before they become an electrical fire hazard. Also, use circuit breakers in the house wiring and also for plugging outlets to prevent fires due to overloading.

In recent years a lot of fires have been experienced due to electrical heaters to supplement home heating. Care should be taken to keep portable heaters at a distance from combustible materials to prevent fires. Also, go for heaters that have auto shutoff in case of overloading or overheating.

Fire places are also one of the biggest fire hazards in houses with fireplaces. Use screens to prevent fire spark from flying off to the outside of the fireplace. Keep combustible material at a distance from the fireplace to prevent them from catching fire. Also, do not overload the fireplace with excessive wood, which may cause sudden outburst of fire within few seconds and unexpectedly. Clean the chimneys periodically to help smoke escape freely into the air and also to clean bird nests which can catch fire.

Have an escape plan ready for the home. It is a good idea to be also prepared for a fire. Practicing an escape from time to time also increases response during the times of actual fire. Have a plan for every room in the house.

Educating the house inmates especially children would make evacuation plan easier in the event of an emergency. Children are especially fascinated about fires and like to create fires, about a hundred thousand fires a year are started by children while playing.

People have a negligent attitude towards fire safety especially during the holidays. They relax every rule just for fun and end up paying huge price for that. Care should be taken even while selecting a Christmas tree, see that it’s not too big so as to make it difficult to manage and which can catch fire easily. Decorations which are non-flammable in nature should be used to decorate homes.

When talking about home security equipment, one size does not fit all. Security equipment must be tailored to meet the particular needs of each house or company. One may need entry detection, while another needs camera surveillance, and another may need motion-detection floodlights. Let us look at some of the many choices available.

Home Security Systems – Many articles have been written on this subject and the basics are probably known by most readers. Systems are either wired or wireless, just as the names imply. For a renter, a wireless system is the logical choice, as the installation does little if any damage to the premises. And, the system can be taken when the renter moves. Wired is the system of choice in an owned residence, but it has its pros and cons. Because wires are run from every protected point to the alarm control panel, holes must be drilled and wires fastened. However, when done by a professional company, the work is done with care and is mostly concealed. Labor is the main contributor to the high cost of a wired system. At today’s labor rates, several technicians working in your house for a week can run up quite a bill. A money saving tip here is do-it-yourself. If you have the basic knowledge to fix a lamp cord, you can read the wiring diagrams and install a wired system at a budget cost. Your car, motorcycle, camper, or boat on trailer, can also be connected to the security system. Many types of motion detectors are available, some even “pet friendly”. Regardless of wired or wireless, ultimately either system can sound a local alarm, connect to a monitoring station, call your mobile phone, or be custom tailored to meet the exact needs of the user.

Surveillance Cameras – Like home security systems, cameras come in two types, wired or wireless. When the door bell rings, how comforting to see who is at the front door. Now, even low cost systems can view multiple points, and display all cameras on just one split screen monitor. Camera products change rapidly, offering more and more features at lower and lower prices. One of the best recent offerings is an outdoor motion-activated floodlight and color camera combination. It does not get any better than that! Disturbing statistics show that we cannot always trust persons in our house, like the baby-sitter or a serviceman. A wireless hidden camera provides an ideal solution for this case. It is, in fact, one of the most popular home security items. Other uses for an indoor camera include keeping watch on your prized possessions, and of course keeping watch over your baby.

Home Automation – Here is an area of products you will want to look at while security shopping. The evolution of security products has blended into a new category of home automation products. We have traveled well beyond the wireless garage door opener. Your home computer can now be used to control appliances, lighting, cameras, store camera video files, check on your home, turn on and off your security lighting and even your sprinkler system!

The telephone auto-dialer can dial the police directly and play a pre-recorded message giving the address of the house and any other relevant information. This message will usually play over and over again to allow the police to hear it even if the call is put on hold for some time. Alternatively, it can dial the security company that installed the equipment that will then relay this information to the police. They can even dial your cellphone to alert you!

Home security is a rapidly growing field, and there are new and improved burglar alarms being invented all the time. All these systems are more or less built around the same basic structure. There is a central control box that monitors several motion detectors and the perimeter guards and sounds an alarm when any of them are triggered.

It is now quite common to have burglar alarms installed not only in stores and other businesses, but in private homes as well. These systems range from inexpensive do-it-yourself kits to sophisticated whole-house security networks that must be installed by professionals. However, some of the most effective alarm systems are also the simplest. The most basic burglar alarm is a simple electric circuit built into an entry way; it is as effective as the family dog. But the problem with it is that the intruder can cut off the connection by snapping the wires and render it useless.

To overcome this flaw the modern burglar alarms incorporate the control box into the circuit. It has its own power supply and monitors the circuits and sounds the alarm. The control box won’t cut off the alarm until somebody enters a security code at a connected keypad. To make it even more secure, you should place the control box in an out-of-the-way spot, so the intruder can’t find it and try to destroy it.

Another simple option of home security is the basic floor mat that uses an open circuit design with two metal strips spaced apart. These metal strips are pushed together when somebody steps on the mat and the circuit is completed.

All of these circuit systems are effective home security devices for guarding the perimeter of a house or business from the points an intruder is likely to enter the building. Once the entry points are taken care of your home security system is in place and you can feel absolutely safe and secure in your house.

The first line of protection should be wireless security cameras for your home. With the technology available today, wireless security cameras are not only affordable but easy to install thus giving you control of your budget but also of your time. Depending on your personal needs and goals for protection, wireless security cameras are available to you in a variety of models; Black and White wireless security cameras, night vision cameras, network ip cameras, infra-red cameras and many more. The point is that what ever your needs are for home security, wireless security cameras should be your first line of protection for the home. As your first line of defense, visible wireless security cameras will give the overt protection that tells a would be burglar/intruder that he should go down the street to an easier mark and leave your house alone.

The second line of protection should be motion sensors, like wireless security cameras, motion sensors are affordable and easy to install. What a wireless security camera might see a motion detector will feel. Now you have both sight and feel protection for your home. Motion sensors are portable and mobile so you can place them in all the unique areas in and around you home, giving you the ultimate in home protection and detection. As the wireless security cameras give you sight and overt protection, the motion sensors will add the layer of covert protection when needed.

The third line of protection should be alarm monitors. Alarm monitors like wireless security cameras and motion sensors are also quite affordable and easy to install. Alarm monitors can give you both overt and covet protection. By alerting you to a would be burglar/intruder and creating fear when the unpleasant alarm sound is activated. The alarm monitors available today have many of features to meet your individual protection needs.

In addition to the above protection equipment one needs for there home protection and security, please always make sure of the following:

•You always should have appropriate lighting both in the front, back and sides of your home

•Your home should always have solid and sturdy doors

•Always have you windows locked and secured

•Take careful measures that your home is secure when vacationing and always stop you paper delivery and have some one pick up your mail or have the Post Office hold until you return

Fit locks which secure the frames together in preference to locks which simply secure the handle or stay bar. Casement windows, by their very design, need to be locked by securing the window to the frame. Most casement locks are screwed to the window rather than the frame – a weaker system. There are locks which are fixed to the frame and these are probably more secure, as well as being easy to use.

There are also locks specifically designed for use on windows with tapered edges (not 90º to the frame).

If the window is flush to the frame fit mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted into the window and operated internally with a key). They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure and fixed into either end of the frame. You might want to consider using door mortice bolts for a longer throw.

If you are intending to use the type of lock that screws to the window, the following test is a rough guide to help you to decide how many you will require: with the window closed, press each opening corner. If there is any movement, fit a suitable lock, such as a push lock (push to lock, key to open) at each corner on the opening side. If there is no movement, a lock fitted to the centre of the opening frame will suffice.

It is possible to secure wooden casements in the open position for purposes of ventilation, very necessary in hot weather, or child safety. These are particularly appropriate in a ground floor bedroom situation where someone wishes to sleep with the window open.

Likewise they are well suited to upper floors where windows can be locked open, allowing ventilation but, at the same time, preventing children from opening the window beyond a safe aperture. Whilst it is recognised that this type of device is designed more for safety purposes rather than security, it would be likely to alert the occupant if an attempt to force it was made. It is intended that these locks should be used only when someone is in residence. If your home is unoccupied the windows should be locked in the usual manner.

If you are considering replacing your existing windows, look for the new British Standard 7950 kite mark. It has been established to set specific manufacturing standards of design and security for casement windows.

Note: Georgian wired glass may look strong, but it will easily break. It is a fire safety glass not a security glass.

Wooden sliding sash

You cannot rely on existing central sash fasteners. Sash stops are strong and convenient to use and do not need to be removed from window when opening fully. They can be set into the top frame allowing the window to be left open about 5″ for ventilation but still secure. For optimum security fit in pairs.

An alternative form of lock is the dual screw. These in effect bolt the two sashes together. An added bonus is that, in so doing, they also reduce draughts.

The beading which holds the glass in place is frequently only pinned. The window can be made more secure, either by gluing in addition to pinning or screwing the beading, if wide enough, in place.

A modern style is the ’tilt to clean’ sliding sash, not only sliding up and down but also tilting inwards for cleaning by undoing two clips on top of each moving sash. These should be secured by fitting both sash stops and dual screws.

Metal Crittal

You can either secure the window or the handle to prevent opening. One of the main problems with this type of window is the narrow profile of the frame, making it difficult to fit devices.

For this reason there are locks specifically designed for this type of window. It is probably easier to secure the handle, where there is normally more room to fit the lock. Use a fanlight lock to secure the fanlight window.

Aluminium

The highest level of security fitted by the manufacturer on most aluminium windows, including coated aluminium, is a locking handle, but, whilst it would be satisfactory to most insurance standards, it is not particularly secure. This is because it is the handle which is being locked and not the window. As most handles are not of a good casting standard they have a tendency to break under pressure, or come loose from the frame.

It is possible to fit extra locks to aluminium windows, but care should be taken to ensure that there is enough metal around the window to be able to fit the lock without contacting the glass. Suitable locks designed for this purpose are available.

In the case of sliding horizontal aluminium windows, additional security can be achieved with the fitting of a key operated clamp on the bottom rail of the frame. Windows are often left open to allow the circulation of air, particularly in hot conditions. This, inevitably, reduces the level of security. By fitting a sliding window lock to the bottom rail you can restrict the slide to a few inches.

Alternatively, drilling a small hole through the bottom rail at the point at which you wish to restrict the slider and inserting an appropriate sized bolt will suffice. Additionally, to prevent the slider being lifted, fit a wooden block of a suitable depth into the track above the slider.

Louvres

Louvered windows are not so common as they used to be. In the main, this is because their inherent lack of security is well recognised. There are some measures that can be taken to make them less vulnerable, but these should be seen only as temporary, for overall, it is best to replace them at the earliest opportunity.

Some are made with the glass secured in the frame. If not, fix the glass in both frames with an epoxy resin adhesive. If the windows are sited in a vulnerable position, you may need to fit a grille or bars, though the better option would be complete replacement.

UPVC / PVCU

In many cases it is not possible to retro-fit any extra locks to UPVC windows. This is because the material used is not strong enough to support a metal lock fitted with steel screws. It could also damage the window and perhaps invalidate any existing warranty.

Double glazed window locking systems should be fitted at the time of manufacture. A general rule to follow is that the handle should not be the only means of keeping the window closed. The locking system should be fitted within the framework and the handle is used as a means of throwing or engaging the internal locking system.

Always consult the manufacturer/supplier before attempting to fit any extra locks. There are locks that can be fitted to UPVC casement windows, but only if there is no integral locking system within the framework, typically where the only means of security is a locking handle.

There are two main types of locking systems:

• The first is espagnolette (multi-point) locking, which are bolts (normally 3 sets) set into the window and located into locking points in the frame when the handle is turned. The bolts should be mushroom headed so that they can engage behind the locking point, thus enabling the window to resist being forced apart from the frame.
• The second type is deadlock shoot bolts which locate into the frame at both opening side corners. There is also a deadlock which secures the opening side of the window at the handle. The window can also be fitted with high security friction hinges which locate into the frame on the hinge side.

For additional strength sections of hardened aluminium or galvanised steel reinforcements should be fitted at the time of manufacture within the hollow profiles of the windows and frames, so that the locking systems can be secured through the UPVC frames into the reinforcements.

It is preferable for the windows to be fitted with internal beading to avoid the possibility of the glass being removed from the outside. There are some systems which have external beading but are secure because the glass is adhered to the frame or secured by special tamper-proof clips, but in most cases internal beading is preferable.

Lastly, if you are considering replacing your existing windows, look for the new British Standard 7950 kite mark. It has been established to set specific manufacturing standards of design and security for windows.

Secondary glazing

Though they are not installed these days, there are still many houses fitted with secondary glazing, mainly aluminium. Because of the narrow profile and intrinsic weakness of the frames, there is very little additional security which can be added. Such glazing has generally been fitted to wooden framed windows, which can be secured by standard window locks.

However, sliding secondary glazing can offer additional security with the fitting of a key operated clamp on the bottom rail of the frame. Particularly in hot conditions windows are left open to allow the circulation of air. This, inevitably, reduces the level of security. By fitting a sliding window lock to the bottom rail you can restrict the slide to a few inches.

Alternatively, drilling a small hole through the bottom rail at the point at which you wish to restrict the slider and inserting an appropriate sized bolt will suffice. Additionally, to prevent the slider being lifted, fit a wooden block of a suitable depth into the track above the slider. When used in conjunction with stay locks or child safety locks on the primary glazed window, security is enhanced further.

Leaded windows

These are not secure unless you fit secondary laminated glazing, polycarbonate sheeting, or internal grilles.

The variety of alarms and their fitting is a complex subject. As a starting point the installation should meet with British Standard 4737/BS EN 50131. This type of installation refers to hard-wired systems as opposed to wire-free. Though more expensive than many wire-free or DIY packages on the market, they are more reliable and conform to the Association of Chief Police Officers Intruder Alarm Policy. The only wire free system which conforms both to British Standards and the ACPO Intruder Alarm Policy is a BS 6799 Class VI alarm. This type is typically more expensive than its hard-wired counterpart. Be aware that systems that claim to meet with British Standards, but don’t specify BS 4737/BS EN 50131 or 6799, may well be referring to the electrical standard and not that of the alarm system.

If you are thinking about the installation of an alarm system in your home it is worth taking into account that the police response to alarm activations varies according to the type of alarm installed. In recent years the percentage of false alarm calls caused by either equipment, communication or user error represented in excess of 92% of all alarm activations nationally. In order to redress the balance in favour of genuine calls, the ACPO Unified Intruder Alarm Policy has been adopted by the police, in which two types of alarms are defined, together with the relevant police response.

• Type A – Remote Signalling Alarms, including intruder alarms terminating at approved central monitoring stations. They must be maintained and used in accordance with British Standard 4737/BS EN 50131, BS 7042 (high security systems) or BS 6799 Class VI (wire-free alarms). Such alarms will be registered with the police and identified by a unique reference number (URN) and can include personal attack alarms. The police response to their activation will be based on the assumption that an offence is taking place, but against the background of competing urgent calls and available resources. Such a response will also be conditional upon the number of false activations in any 12 month period, in which case the activation may receive a lower priority police attendance.
• Type B – Audible Only and Hybrid Alarms, including bells-only and automatic dialling alarms, as well as alarms from non-compliant companies and non-compliant central stations. URNs will not be issued for these systems. To obtain police attendance, in addition to their activation Type B alarms will also require some indication that an offence is in progress, e.g. from a witness.

In identifying a compliant company installing Type A alarms you should seek answers to the following questions:

1. Before disclosing personal security details, have I checked the address and credentials of the company and seen proof of identity from the representative?
2. Is the company subject of an independent inspection process and if so which organisation?
3. Is the installation of an alarm a requirement of my insurance company and if so, is the company acceptable to my insurer?
4. Can the company representative provide me with a list of police rules for occupiers of premises with alarms and written confirmation that the alarm and the company are currently acceptable to the local police for the transmission of alarm messages from new installations.
5. Have I sought written quotations from at least two alarm installers?
6. Does the quotation:
   • specify that the installation will be to British Standard 4737/ BS EN 50131or BS 7042 (high security systems), or, if it is a wire free alarm, BS 6799 Class 6, as amended by BS DD 244?
   • include the terms of maintenance and monitoring contracts?
7. Does the company operate a 24 hour call-out service and emergency attendance within four hours?

Police accept the installation of remote signalling alarms from alarm companies whose business is subject to inspection by independent inspectorate organisations identified in police policy. Currently these are:

• National Approval Council for Security Systems
• Security Systems and Alarm Inspection Board

All of these organisations publish lists of relevant companies.

All alarm systems should have two keyholders, trained to operate the alarm, able to attend activation within 20 minutes, contactable by telephone and with their own transport.

If you are contemplating having an alarm installed and need additional advice, contact your local Crime Prevention Officer who will be happy to offer you further guidance. You may find that the cost of fitting an alarm system is lower than you originally anticipated. If several houses in a street or Neighbourhood Watch are considering installing alarm systems, it is possible that an installer may give a discount for multiple installations. What is more, it is possible that the cost of an installation could be partly offset by reduced household insurance premiums. You should be aware, however, that the insurer may stipulate that the alarm should be set at all times when the property is unoccupied, and that any claim for losses incurred as a result of a break-in while alarm was not set may be adjusted accordingly.

A useful addition to perimeter security can be exterior lighting, either switched manually or automatically operated. Lighting does have its limitations – burglaries often take place during daylight hours; if the light is activated, someone has to notice it – and take action. Lighting should be seen as an aid, but on its own it is not sufficient to deter a burglar.

The most common form of lighting is passive infra-red which is activated when someone comes into its field of vision. The light can be set to stay on for a set time and then it will re-set if the cause of its activation is no longer present. A passive infra-red unit can activate single or multiple lights.

Lights can be useful on the approach to a front or rear door or garage, not only lighting up if someone approaches your house, but also when you approach, so that you can see if anyone is lurking in the shadows. It must be remembered though that lights can be activated by certain animals. Also, you do not want the light to be activated every time your neighbours go into their garden or when someone walks past the front of your property. However, the field of activation can be adjusted. You must also make sure that your light does not intrude into your neighbours windows or those of passing vehicles – light pollution can often be at the centre of many disputes.

An alternative is to fit low pressure sodium lights which are operated by a photo-electric cell. This turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn. It is a much less obtrusive light and, although it is on all night, it can be cheaper to run than spotlights.

These lights can be DIY fitted, but if you are not sure, it is essential that you contact a qualified electrical contractor.

Lighting – Interior

A sensible arrangement of leaving lights switched on inside the house while the house itself is unoccupied can substantially help to give the impression to a passer-by that the house is in fact occupied. It is sensible to use a downstairs room with a drawn curtain and sufficient light inside to suggest that the room is occupied. A light should not be left on solely in the hall – a thief may guess that the premises are unoccupied as it is not normal for the occupants to spend all night only in the hall!

There are many automatic devices available – simple and extremely sophisticated – that will turn lights on and off in random fashion and may even be set to control other electrical appliances such as the radio or television. Automatic switching will help to convince the casual thief that the house is occupied.

Most of the time security lighting will be all that is necessary to scare off a potential intruder. But do remember, lighting cannot work miracles. It is sensible to make sure that your physical defences – the locks, the bars and window bolts – will resist attack. Let your neighbours know that you are out, and if you are a member of your neighbourhood watch scheme so much the better. You can also inform your local police station that you are away.

All crime prevention advice is based on the deterrent and delaying value of the various security devices which can be installed. Locks on doors and windows certainly provide the main thrust of the advice, but in themselves they are only part of a complete security package.

All single-glazed areas on both the ground floor and other accessible areas can be vulnerable to attack. After all, plain glass is easily breakable. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass with laminated glass, two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate. This is far more difficult to break through as it will not shatter and will therefore delay any attempt at forced entry, a valuable deterrent.

Alternatively, you can place a plastic glazing film over the glazed area to prevent the glass from shattering, though the clarity of the glass will be reduced.

When replacing glass in wooden windows use a glazing mastic to bond it to the frame, as it is far tougher than putty.

Leaded windows are particularly susceptible in that they offer little resistance to attack. Lead is a soft material with poor tensile strength. To protect them you can install secondary glazing, or, alternatively, fit metal grilles or bars. Such measures can detract from the overall look of your windows, but it is important to be aware of their vulnerability.